Updated Monday, March 17 at 11:49 a.m.
David Ellis is on a journey to become the top barista in the nation.
The mixed-race Iñupiaq Denverite has had his sights on competing in the U.S. Coffee Championships for years.
“We’re a storytelling people,” Ellis said, referencing his Indigenous roots. “Whenever I do anything I want to talk about it.”
Competitors have 15 minutes to prepare and serve espressos, a milk drink and a personal signature beverage for four sensory judges. Two technical judges will also be assessing preparation abilities.
Placing fifth at this year’s qualifiers in Houston, Ellis secured a first-round bye, giving him an automatic slot in the semi-final competition on Saturday, March 16.
Those going on to the finals will compete on Sunday.
From Starbucks to bespoke beans
Born and raised in Colorado Springs, Ellis has lived in Denver for a little over 12 years. He's spent 16 years in the coffee industry, starting out at coffee chains like Starbucks and Peet’s Coffee.
Now, Ellis runs his own coffee roastery, Oh Oh Coffee!, and works as the director of operations for DNVR Coffee Co.
In his first year competing at the Coffee Championships, Ellis used an espresso fermented with the yeast of champagne, tasting like a mix of ginger and Sprite. The resulting drink was “super dry,” “weird” and “unique,” and it didn't exactly land with the judges.
This year, Ellis called for the help of other local coffee gourmands.
His coffee is roasted by Andy Sprenger, founder and award-winning roaster of Sweet Bloom Coffee Roasters, which has locations in Westminster, Lakewood and Arvada. Ellis also enlisted Heather McCullough, a past top barista competitor and the director of operations for Novo Coffee, to be his coach.
What it takes to be a top barista
The competition begins way before the final presentation is ready. Ellis starts by finding coffee samples from farms that produce what he called “competition-level coffee,” selling from $60-$70 a pound.
Going back and forth with Sprenger, the duo must perfect the roasting process in order to get as much flavor out of the beans.
Then, it's all coming up with a theme. Talking about it with anyone who will listen, Ellis leaned on his coaches and members of DNVR Coffee Co to come up with the best story to tell via coffee.
“The barista competition is essentially a Ted talk,” Ellis said. “It’s 15 minutes uninterrupted of me getting to say whatever I want while serving these drinks.”
The theme Ellis decided on: How we change over the process of our careers.
Ellis has seen his own position within the industry change and evolve over time. He's had to overcome challenges, like opening a mobile coffee truck just before the pandemic that ultimately failed due to bad timing.
This isn't Ellis' first time in the coffee spotlight. He placed first at the Peet’s Coffee Barista Competition in 2017. Today, Ellis is equally nervous and excited about getting to the national competition.
“We’re all inside of our own process when it comes to our own careers or passions,” Ellis said. “No one gets to a certain level overnight.”
Ellis enjoys coffee competitions because it’s a space where kindred spirits can go on and on about the luxury, science and art of coffee.
“The more details you learn about the process of how it gets to your plate, the more you can appreciate the quality that comes from those little details,” Ellis said. “I have followed this competition since 2012. If there were trading cards, I would buy them.”
David Ellis placed 17th in the U.S. Coffee Championships semifinals.
"As soon as I tasted my espresso in the bus tub I knew," Ellis said in a text message. "I pulled the shots just a few seconds to fast and that made them taste completely different. I'm happy with my performance and the connections I made. Plus I was rooting for Frank to win and he did!"
