It's taken a while for Fathima Dickerson to admit that her family's business has really reopened.
Welton Street Cafe closed in 2022, after two decades in an aging space that it had outgrown. The family hoped it would take 18 months to move into a new location a few blocks away — still on Welton Street — but they ran into setbacks with contractors and paperwork as they renovated a century-old building. The metamorphosis took three years.
Justin Gilmore of Gilmore Construction puts a finishing touch on the decor inside Welton Street Cafe before its soft opening. Oct. 24, 2024. Kevin J. Beaty/Denverite
Fathim Dickerson tweaks a hood in his new kitchen at Welton Street Cafe, his family's longtime Five Points business. Oct. 24, 2024. Kevin J. Beaty/Denverite
The restaurant technically reopened in October, with a soft launch that slid into months of solidly booked reservations. Dickerson was still talking about hosting a grand opening in January, weeks after the place had hit its stride. Her employees laughed it off, but she was serious.
She had downplayed things for so long, even avoiding press interviews, because the restaurant needed to be ready before her family could let its guard down. The last three years had been hard, and they worried most they would let down the community that was feverishly waiting for their return.
The stress and the work were worthwhile, Fathima said. They knew who they were doing it for.
Founded in 1986, Welton Street Cafe became a symbol of Five Points' roots as the historically Black neighborhood grew taller, more gentrified and more expensive and other legacy businesses moved out.
"Sometimes this is what it takes. It takes a downfall, it takes a lot of time, it takes a lot of money and takes a lot of sacrifice," she said. "When you've been in this community and know the value this community has, you want to remain here. This is definitely for the people."
The business needed to find its footing.
"I'm feeling nervous," Fathima, the family spokesperson, told us back in October. "I've been out of my routine. We've been out of our routine. So you got to get back in your groove."
It wasn't just that she was out of practice. The Dickersons relied on a well-oiled crew in their old location. But the people buzzing around the new dining room were all new, too. So was the point-of-sale system and the kitchen. They couldn't know how things would go until they really got to work.
Fathima knew they'd figure it out. But there was a deep sadness to the change, too. Rhonda Abdullah, her longtime head waitress and a dear friend, died of cancer in 2023.
"Running the show without my wingman is also something that sits on my spirit," Fathima said. "She is going to be missed by not just the staff, but the patrons are going to miss her. And so yeah, this is a whole new wait staff."
Things were rocky at first. The restaurant soft-opened with a full house and never really slowed down. Some new employees ghosted the business early on. Things were hectic. There were tears.
Dickerson took a holistic approach to shepherding everyone through it. During construction, she took classes with a local organization that offers mental health resources for the service industry. In meetings, she led mindfulness exercises and made sure everyone had comfortable shoes. For weeks, she huddled customers in the building's entryway to prep them before going in: This is new, so please be patient.
Still, the pressure was real. For three years, the Dickersons couldn't go anywhere without someone asking when they'd return.
"There's been so much high expectation for this opening and you just want to make sure that you are still pleasing the people," Fathima said, "because I know this place is more than just food."
She didn't need to worry. The community had plenty of grace to offer.
At the Welton Street Cafe, countless longtime customers have become family friends —so the line between soft open and just open was easily blurred. They hugged Fathima as they came inside and marveled at the space. They were just glad to be there.
"I used to eat this every day, so I was definitely, definitely trying to come get a taste of them honey hots," Alawn Smith said, as he tried to squeeze his family in without a reservation. "Without this, man, we definitely as a neighborhood, as a community, definitely missed it."
Zaidith Quiroga (left) and Marvis Lane check a ticket on the line in the back of Welton Street Cafe. Nov. 16, 2025. Kevin J. Beaty/Denverite
Cenya Dickerson dredges catfish in Welton Street Cafe's back of house. Dec. 6, 2024. Kevin J. Beaty/Denverite
The Dickersons had more than the community's patronage to be grateful for. Some people helped along the way, donating time or money or houseplants to ensure the business returned.
"There's a list of supporters," Fathima said, "financial supporters or prayer warriors."
The building itself owed its completion to volunteered hours. Gilmore Construction offered advice on project management and then took over as general contractor after the Dickersons struggled to work with the company they'd hired.
"Them being a staple in the community and seeing the things that were happening to them — we talked to other contractors about it, and none of them wanted to touch it. And so it was just one of those things where it was just the right thing to do," Justin Gilmore, a director with the company, told us.
Mona Dickerson, the family and business matriarch, said she was grateful for so much support.
"I’m very happy. I'm very happy to see the turnout, the people coming out. I appreciate all the old customers. I don't know what to say," she said as she lifted beef patties from a pot of oil in the kitchen. "After not working for two-and-a-half years, it's good to do something good. Very good."
Things are humming now at the restaurant.
The waitstaff is finding its groove. There are still bumps here and there, but that's restaurants. People seem happy.
"This is my first time working in a restaurant, and it's been a good experience," Evonne Wedgeworth said as she held down the host stand. "I love a family environment. I love the job. This is my second home, I'm here every day, open to close."
The kitchen is also getting dialed in. Fathima Dickerson's twin brother, Fathim, presides over the back of house. He remembers when the room still had a dirt floor.
"I was in here by myself, day in and day out, trying to get it together. Then we hired staff and trained them. Everything's starting to come to fruition. I love the way it's coming together," Fathim said. "It's still a work in progress, but we're getting there."
The Dickersons are starting to breathe. After years of stress and waiting, the new vision for their family's livelihood seems to be stabilizing. Most of all, they're delighted that their neighbors are finally close to them again.
"It was like, 'I miss you. I love you. I love you back!'" Fathima said. "That's what fills your heart."
She said she's planning a true grand opening sometime this year. But that, too, needs to be perfect: When the time comes, it will honor Rhonda Abdullah, the head waitress who will always be a missing piece of the Welton Street Cafe.
